Navy
Women's Navy Dress
In 1917 Women's Royal Naval Service (WRNS) personnel, for example, there was little need for specialised working clothes and a coat-frock was worn.
For duties requiring that the uniform be protected such as cooking, aircraft doping or servicing, wrap-around, loose cotton overall coats were provided. The driving of motor vehicles also required women to be provided with breeches for use on motorcycles and heavy outer coats, hats and gloves for protection against the weather.
It was only from the mid 1950's that women's uniform started to take fashion into account. Softer lines, a less military appearance, more tailoring, an Air Hostess style cap, the disappearance of opaque stockings and the optional use of Court shoes all contributed to this trend.
Women's Navy Dress
In 1917 Women's Royal Naval Service (WRNS) personnel, for example, there was little need for specialised working clothes and a coat-frock was worn.
For duties requiring that the uniform be protected such as cooking, aircraft doping or servicing, wrap-around, loose cotton overall coats were provided. The driving of motor vehicles also required women to be provided with breeches for use on motorcycles and heavy outer coats, hats and gloves for protection against the weather.
It was only from the mid 1950's that women's uniform started to take fashion into account. Softer lines, a less military appearance, more tailoring, an Air Hostess style cap, the disappearance of opaque stockings and the optional use of Court shoes all contributed to this trend.
Men's Navy Dress
"When we were making the uniform, sailors wanted a uniform that was comfortable, that didn't require maintenance and would stand up under a lot of washing, and one of the ways to get that is a nylon-cotton blend," Kirby said. "We realize that nylon does not react well to flame, but again, there was no requirement for a fire-resistant uniform in a working environment."
The first uniform instruction for the U.S. Navy was issued by the Secretary of War on 24 August 1791.The usual dress of a seaman was made up of a short jacket, shirt, vest, long trousers, and a black low crowned hat.
Class I = Chief Petty Officers
Class II = Petty officers and other ratings dressed as Seamen
Class III = All other petty officers and ratings.
There were 10 numbered orders of dress for ratings but, as hinted at above, these were not always the same for different class of ratings. For example the No.1 and No.3 dress were, by and large, the same uniform with No.1 being 'best dress' and kept for 'walking out' and parades, whilst No.3 was used for normal working duties. A further distinction was made with the use of gold insignia on No. 1 dress and red insignia on No. 3 dress. However, the No.1 and No. 3 dress for Class I ratings was more akin to that worn by officers and therefore completely different from the No. 1 and No. 3 dress for Class II ratings.
"When we were making the uniform, sailors wanted a uniform that was comfortable, that didn't require maintenance and would stand up under a lot of washing, and one of the ways to get that is a nylon-cotton blend," Kirby said. "We realize that nylon does not react well to flame, but again, there was no requirement for a fire-resistant uniform in a working environment."
The first uniform instruction for the U.S. Navy was issued by the Secretary of War on 24 August 1791.The usual dress of a seaman was made up of a short jacket, shirt, vest, long trousers, and a black low crowned hat.
Class I = Chief Petty Officers
Class II = Petty officers and other ratings dressed as Seamen
Class III = All other petty officers and ratings.
There were 10 numbered orders of dress for ratings but, as hinted at above, these were not always the same for different class of ratings. For example the No.1 and No.3 dress were, by and large, the same uniform with No.1 being 'best dress' and kept for 'walking out' and parades, whilst No.3 was used for normal working duties. A further distinction was made with the use of gold insignia on No. 1 dress and red insignia on No. 3 dress. However, the No.1 and No. 3 dress for Class I ratings was more akin to that worn by officers and therefore completely different from the No. 1 and No. 3 dress for Class II ratings.
Design Solution
Before creating the designs I wanted to clarify that I would be able to solve the problem of the current fabrics being highly flammable. I have kept the same fabric as what is used currently but I have chosen to use a substance called Proban. This is a coating that you soak the fabrics thoroughly with which makes them flame retardant. This was developed in the 1950’s and is usually applied to cotton, woven or knitted fabrics. Proban can only be used when a licence is issued by Rhodia.
Before creating the designs I wanted to clarify that I would be able to solve the problem of the current fabrics being highly flammable. I have kept the same fabric as what is used currently but I have chosen to use a substance called Proban. This is a coating that you soak the fabrics thoroughly with which makes them flame retardant. This was developed in the 1950’s and is usually applied to cotton, woven or knitted fabrics. Proban can only be used when a licence is issued by Rhodia.
Army
In 1914 Service uniforms were Khaki coloured which was a large change to the red ones that had been the start of the first permanent army in 1645. Red was the national colour known to England although it is known to be the colour that the eye recognises first. This wasn’t such a problem to the army’s in 1866 because of the weapons that were used required a soldier to stand up to load and get very close in order to hit targets because of the inaccuracy of the weapons. Khaki was adopted as the weapons improved and therefore meant that soldiers were a lot less visible to the opposing side.
It was made of thick woollen serge which meant that it was uncomfortable for the soldiers as well as itchy. But they were a lot more durable which saved money and meant that they were less likely to damage them. They had bindings around their legs called ‘putties’ which were also very inconvenient to put on and were also not luxurious but meant that the calf was supported when marching, they stopped debris and bugs getting into the boots and in theory helped the feet from getting wet although if they were stood in water for a long time they didn’t work. They had a lot of brass hardware on their uniforms that were to be kept in good condition and polished to perfection. But these in turn made them glint in the sunshine and were far easier to spot making them combat indicators. They also wore stiff caps with not a lot of protection.
In 1914 Service uniforms were Khaki coloured which was a large change to the red ones that had been the start of the first permanent army in 1645. Red was the national colour known to England although it is known to be the colour that the eye recognises first. This wasn’t such a problem to the army’s in 1866 because of the weapons that were used required a soldier to stand up to load and get very close in order to hit targets because of the inaccuracy of the weapons. Khaki was adopted as the weapons improved and therefore meant that soldiers were a lot less visible to the opposing side.
It was made of thick woollen serge which meant that it was uncomfortable for the soldiers as well as itchy. But they were a lot more durable which saved money and meant that they were less likely to damage them. They had bindings around their legs called ‘putties’ which were also very inconvenient to put on and were also not luxurious but meant that the calf was supported when marching, they stopped debris and bugs getting into the boots and in theory helped the feet from getting wet although if they were stood in water for a long time they didn’t work. They had a lot of brass hardware on their uniforms that were to be kept in good condition and polished to perfection. But these in turn made them glint in the sunshine and were far easier to spot making them combat indicators. They also wore stiff caps with not a lot of protection.
Present day army uniform’s main change is the camouflage print which means that all of the soldiers are able to hide a lot better and are able to use long ranging weapons without being spotted as they blend in with the scenery. They dry quickly which means illness is less likely and they are a lot more comfortable. There are pockets on the legs of the trousers for maps and medical kits because the soldiers carry field dressings which means that minor injuries that could potentially be fatal are not a threat anymore. Instead of the ‘putties’ in 2014 the equivalent is ‘gaiters’ which are easy to put on. They come over the whole boot and have zips on them which keep the feet dry. Soldiers also wear Gor-Tex socks which allow the feet to breathe as well as dry quickly. The helmets that modern day soldiers wear are durable and heavy compared to the stiff caps, but they are able to stop a 7.62 caliber round which means that they have been known to save lives.